Bracing coastal winter breaks at Northumberland’s Red Lion Inn
There are few places as enticing on a cold but crisp winter’s day as the north Northumberland Coast.
Once England’s hidden gem known only to the cognoscenti, it has become more recognised in recent years since actor – and Northumberland resident – Robson Green’s ITV1 programmes showcased the county’s many attractions to a wider audience.
But Northumberland is about more than summertime seaside breaks and the colder months are an ideal time to appreciate its dramatic coastline and miles of beaches, imposing castles and huge skies without the hordes of people who now flock here in high season.
It’s also the perfect time of the year to discover cosy, intimate inns such as the Red Lion in Alnmouth. Think cosy log fires, hearty locally-sourced food in the restaurant and a friendly bar with a great choice of real ales, and you’ll begin to get an idea of the ambience.
A 18th Century traditional coaching inn overlooking picturesque Alnmouth’s beautiful estuary, the Red Lion has six en-suite bedrooms which have recently been refurbished to luxury standards. But you won’t be paying luxury prices because the inn offers special bed and breakfast winter offers from the end of November to the start of March (excluding Christmas week and New Year).
Owned since 2003 by former RAF engineer Mac McHugh and his wife Jane, who worked as a midwife before becoming a hotelier, the Red Lion is a real community hub in the village. It runs an annual charity beer festival during the summer and has introduced a series of residential boat navigation and photography courses during the winter months. Both McHughs are keen sailors who hold RYA day skipper qualifications. The inn’s nautical courses are taught by an instructor from the Greek Islands who Jane trained with.
The photography courses are also popular over the winter months, when Northumberland’s famous dark skies offer some of their best sunsets. Alnmouth is an ideal spot for photographers, whether your interest is landscapes or wildlife shots. Thanks to its location on the estuary of the River Aln, huge numbers of over-wintering birds can be spotted – sometimes up to 100 species a week during the main migration times.
Walkers and golfers are also well catered for. Alnmouth has two golf courses and is in easy reach of the romantic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle if you fancy a bracing winter walk. Alnwick Castle – the location for Hogwarts in the early Harry Potter films and known as the Versailles of the North – is another must-see less than five miles away.
But a stay at the Red Lion Inn isn’t just about learning, enhancing your skills or getting too active; it’s also about rest and relaxation in comfortable surroundings. Since taking over the inn, Mac and Jane have carried out an extensive refurbishment that has retained many of the original features, while putting guests’ comfort at the top of the list.
“Our most recent work has upgraded the guest bedrooms to a luxurious level with all the modern facilities you’d expect. But when you step downstairs to the bar, you’re back in a traditional inn where you can relax by the fire with a glass of something warming.”
It’s hard to believe that three hundred years ago when coaching inns were a vital part of the county’s transport infrastructure, that travellers wouldn’t have been able to sleep for the noise of servants and passengers constantly moving around, horns sounding to announce the next coach arriving and teams of horses clattering up the cobbles through the archway to the courtyard inside. Compare that with today’s tranquillity and simply relax.
Guests can eat in the bar or in the modern restaurant, with exposed brickwork and flagstone floors that retains the inn’s original beams. Lunches and evening meals are served seven days a week.
Jane said: “The Northumberland Coast is renowned for its fish and shellfish and you’ll find them on our main menus and specials boards.
“Winter at the Red Lion also means that some hearty game dishes put in their seasonal appearances, as our chefs make the most of the fabulous local ingredients that are available.”
Alnmouth in winter is a tranquil village that’s the perfect spot for chilling out away from the stresses and strains of daily life. But it’s just 35 miles north of Newcastle upon Tyne and has its own East Coast Mainline railway station, making it easily accessible wherever you’re based. Come and see for yourself why it’s earning itself a spot on the winter breaks map.
The Red Lion Inn 22 Northumberland St, Alnmouth, Alnwick NE66 2RJ
Phone: 01665 830584
www.redlionalnmouth.com